Not Quite Sailing in New York

Col Barling (Sundowner – Top Hat Mk3)

First thing, if you are considering doing some sailing on the Long Island Sound be aware that nothing much happens until Memorial Day (May 31). Up until then it’s maintenance time with maybe 5% of boats in the water. They start to go back in from early to mid May and stay in until November. Most yachts are on swing moorings (around $800 US) while dry storage can be anything from $1800 to $5000 US often under shrink wrapped plastic.

Forget Manhatten, a great place to stay is City Island – the seaport of the Bronx – about 1 hour from Times Square on public transport. City Island has a rich history in maritime activities. It is the home of the American oyster industry and was where many of the Americas Cup yachts were built. It is best known nowadays for the seafood restaurants and television programs.

City Island is about a mile long with an avenue running the length and about 20 dead end cross streets each ending with a small beach (most fenced off). At the end of many there is a yacht club (6 clubs exist on the island), marina or maritime business. Space is short and made shorter by some of the condominium developments that have occurred in recent years. The maritime industries have been declining – Nevins boatyard has gone, Minnifords no longer build boats and the clubs (Morris, Stuyvesant, Harlem, South Minnifords, NY Sailing Centre and City Island YC) are desperately short of stand space.

Space at a premium

City Island is home to where Rod Stephens (one of the Sparkman and Stephens group) started work and where his brother Olin Stephens had a number of his 12-Meter America's Cup defenders built (some of which were Columbia, Constellation, Intrepid, Courageous and Freedom). In all, he had 7 successful defenders. He still claims that Liberty (the 1983 defender) was slow and the wingkeeled Australia II would have been beaten by his Freedom from 1980 defence.

It was high tide (about 7’ range) when I arrived on the island and I thought to myself – easy sailing, protected, a few islands to make things interesting, similar to Yaringa. I changed my mind when I had a look at low tide – granite rock outcrops all over the place (no forgiving mudbanks) including one particular nasty beast called Execution Rock close to Hart Island (a prison and paupers cemetery). The British, who occupied City Island during the Revolutionary War, used to shackle troublemakers to the rock and allow the tide to do its work.

Apart from the absence of boats in the water, my sailing time was limited by the weather and the hesitancy of skippers to sail when the water temperature was still such that a man overboard lasted only 10 minutes or so. Something the locals take quite seriously.

Joe, a 5^th generation Irish American from Brooklyn, has been sailing these waters for years and claimed that the currents flow down the Sound from the north and out through the East River. It certainly appeared that way to me as I watched a chook shed float past (no chooks appeared to be on board but they may have been inside the koop). I would have been too given the chill factor in the Spring north easterly that was blowing. The usual breeze is from the south west which is quite a bit warmer.

Joe on his Westerly style sloop

Carter Brey, the principal Cellist with the NY Philharmonic who, by the way, sails round to Boston for recitals with his Tux hanging in the wet weather locker, told me that there are some tricky parts of the Sound – strong currents and standing waves (sounded similar to the Rip). I’ve invited him to sail at Yaringa next time he is here for a concert (would be his 6^th visit to Oz).

Getting to City Island is easy. Those living in the Bronx drive, while those living in the other boroughs like Carter (west side Manhatten) and Joe (Brooklyn) use public transport. The Subway and Bronx are quite safe and clean nowadays thanks to Mr Giuliani. With a few train and bus transfers and $7 US you can get from JFK airport to City Island. Once off the bus, cross the road (remember to look the opposite way) and you are standing outside LeRefuge B&B (actually you are looking at the Catholic church) but next door is the Samual Pell House built in 1870.

Carter Brey on Mary Ellen a 25’ Cape Dory

You will find the accommodation cost for Australians staying for a week very reasonable (they like Aussies). If you’re a bit richer you can indulge in Pierre’s cuisine (he runs a Manhatten restaurant as well as LeRefuge) or the numerous other eating establishments from City Island Diner, Fellas Bar to the seafood places.

However, if it is sailing you are after, just don’t go in their non sailing season.

Samuel Pell House B&B